A young man sits alone in his cubicle distracted by some notes handwritten in a book. His ‘office’ is part of the Port St Johns Tourism and Information Centre that stands in the middle of town in the Eastern Cape. He is unperturbed by the bustling town outside, the slow whirr of vehicles on some of the dirt roads or the presence of people walking into the place.

Visitors to the Wild Coast

‘Do tourists visit here often?’ is the question posed to him. A long pause before he looks up and answers, rather proudly, that of course they do.

‘Tourists come to Port St Johns all the time,’ he adds, a smile starting to form on his lips.

There are very few signs of outsiders. Apart from the KFC just across the street and the beautifully painted museum next to the Port St Johns town hall; there are none of the typical attractions. Questions start to form as to why they would come here if there is nothing to keep them here.

The loud, undulating marketplace feel of the supermarkets to the right, where country buses, rural folk selling their wares on the side of the street, chickens, minibus taxis and the constant ringing of popular kwaito music congregate, seem an unlikely drawcard.

A Place to Lay your Head in Port St Johns

‘Are you looking for accommodation?’ he asks. ‘We have many places in the Wild Coast.’ In that he is telling the truth. From the outer entrance into this historic harbour, signs of different shapes, sizes and colour advertising places to stay mark the road into the town centre.

More direct you from here to the first beach where a fairly luxurious guesthouse overlooks the ocean. Other signs lead you along a narrow winding road through rural suburbia to the outskirts where you can find the second beach.

Diamonds in the Rough Along the Wild Coast

The third beach is far from the roaming centre, almost hidden under a thick forest, overlooked by the impressive mountain range that makes Port St Johns a mystery. A permit is required to access this beach filled with rocks and rock pools. A guesthouse overlooks this area.

It is a strange little place, found along a dirt road, ensconced in the safety of tall trees and trailing vines. It is owned by a hippie who loves colour, spirit, free love and the peculiar, but his manner is open and down-to-earth.

The Jewel of the Wild Coast Shines

That is the one thing Port St Johns has that the rest of South Africa doesn’t seem to own is serenity and acceptance. Sure, you find it in places of incredible natural beauty in parts of the Eastern Cape and other provinces, but here the serenity seems to permeate even the people. The pets also own it in bucketfuls.

It is okay that a young white woman embraces a young black man as they walk down the dirt road laughing. Only the out-of-towners almost break their necks trying to gauge the reaction. A group of dreadlocked white men sit in the shade of a makeshift garage, but there doesn’t seem to be a sign of marijuana anywhere.

A Small Town of Poverty and Great Beauty

 While a township does exist high in the mountains, there is no fine line between the rich and the poor. Poverty exists everywhere in Port St. Johns and other parts of the Eastern Cape. But, so does the laughter, the camaraderie and, most importantly, the drawcard – the natural magnificence.  It is no coincidence that this place is known also as the Jewel of the Wild Coast. 

It is because it is on the Wild Coast that much of its beauty has been preserved. Very few people have been able to cut through the lively rivers, sharp cliffs and dangerous gorges.

The Xhosa have lived here for many years, supported by the Uzimvubu River, which meanders purposefully along the town, through a high gorge to the sea. This passage is known as the Gates of St Johns and is dominated by two imposing sandstone cliffs – Mt Thesiger and Mt Sullivan.

Port St John’s Location

The town itself sits at the base of a mountain range which seems to close in on itself, protecting this village. On a cloudy day, the grey cumulonimbus serve as a lid on this melting pot. Green is everywhere in the Wild Coast– from the dense vegetation that grows on the mountain tops to the forests, bushes and shrubs that sometimes grow through the rocks on the beach.

Here you will find many intriguing trails leading from the town into the more densely populated vegetation. It is advised that you get a tour guide when you go hiking. The Silaka Nature Reserve is a lovely place in the forest valley south of Port St Johns; offering excellent birdwatching opportunities and many coastal explorations.

Eccentric Ben Dekker

If you’re lucky, you might just meet Big Ben Dekker, a man who is so much a part of the port when he hasn’t decided on disappearing for days or weeks at a time exploring the countryside. A hike from a well-known guesthouse to the beach and up a trail of rocks will lead you to his den – a makeshift abode nestled in the womb of one of the forests.

Ben is an imposing figure, a man who gave up his city life to roam through the Eastern Cape. Legend has it he was once arrested for having sex openly in one of the lagoons. When he was confronted by the authorities, he innocently denied any wrongdoing, saying the woman in question had been drowning and he had moved to save her. Problem is, they were in ankle-deep shallows.  

Frolicking in the Seas of the Wild Coast

He couldn’t have been swimming in the waters of the first beach as the mighty waves and shark-infested waters make it unpopular, although many choose to fish here.

The second beach is perfect to spend long, lazy days soaking up rays and building sandcastles. The waters are warm and your safety is guaranteed under the watchful eye of the ever-present lifeguard contingent.

Nights are rather quiet, except for the crashing of waves onto the shore. A sundowner at one of the beachside cafes is a wonderful opportunity to watch the sun set over the horizon and sometimes you can catch the playful frolic of dolphins or whales.

Looking for a Good Time in Port St Johns

‘Where can we have some live night-time entertainment?’ I ask a couple sitting just in front of me in one of the cafes.

‘Well, there is Vuyani,’ the lady responds. ‘It’s always happening there.’

A quick shake of the head dismisses that idea. What is not told to her is that a quick drive to the famous sports bar and restaurant proved fruitless as it was empty, even if music was blasting from a pair of disco speakers. Outside the youths of the town had gathered next to the pub in their droves, choosing to play music from their cars and catch the last of the light.

‘How about the News Café?’ the lady suggests.

‘There’s a News Café here?’ I ask incredulously. ‘Where is it?’

‘Just down the road, you can’t miss it.’

Port St John’s Drawcard

Thoughts of thumping popular music and fresh, colourful cocktails whiz through my head as we rush back onto the main road. Just as we are almost out of town, we realise we’ve missed the turn somewhere and drive back up the main road.

We’re looking for the famous blue fluorescent lights and the magnetic sign when we notice to our left, just off the road, a white board reading, ‘North, East, West, South Restaurant and Pub’. It is a small, quaint affair sans blue lights and throbbing pulse.

I guess we have to settle for the rush of the waves crashing and the starry sky. After all, this is what Port St Johns is famous for!