Barok, a play on words from South Africa’s diverse cultures denoting over-the-top wearable art, is an extraordinary textile venture that is clothing hip women in unique creations while generating desperately needed employment for women in the remote Magoebaskloof mountains of Limpopo Province.

Hand-crafted Art

Founded by designer Merle Payne, Barok specialises in hand-crafted skirts, handbags, flags, cushion covers and wall-hangings. ‘It can take eight days to make a single piece,’ says Payne, who for 18 years ran the renowned Pearl’s bridal-shop in Johannesburg.

Every Barok item is a work of art, with no two pieces being alike. Each is a rich collage of texture, colour and detailed handwork that pays eclectic, colourful homage to the rich heritage of the people of South Africa and the continent.

African Inspiration

This is achieved by using a traditional pure cotton or silk base fabric as canvas, which is then embellished with Venda braid strips, antique lace, Xhosa machine-stitch embellishment, buttons, Zulu-inspired studs from recycled beverage cans, Ndebele geometric patterns and internationally recognisable icons such as prints of the Mona Lisa, Carravagio’s Bacchus and the Jolly Roger. These classics are all married into thoroughly modern items.

Their most recent works focuses on African pomp, heraldry and flags influenced by designers such as Dior and Yves St Laurent. ‘I’m fascinated by the blend of old world quality and craftsmanship with African colour,’ says Payne. ‘Our inspiration here is the Fante flags of Ghana.’

Authentic-wear With Heart

And Barok is authentic-wear with a heart. In an area of high unemployment, Payne has created opportunities for local women she has trained in embroidery, sewing and stitching.

‘There is a lot of poverty in the area,’ she comments. ‘There was manual labour for men, but nothing for women. So I looked for a labour intensive project that would make a difference. And as they become proficient I bring them into the conceptual process, which adds a new dimension to our work.’

Unsurpassed Craftsmanship

Their attention to detail and craftsmanship is unsurpassed; using only the finest textiles. This is becoming harder and more expensive to source because of the flooding of the market by ‘rubbish’ from the East. ‘I’m sad to say that three quality local textile factories have closed in recent years because of this,’ says Payne.

Despite this, Barok items are affordable works of art. Better still; each piece is a once-off creation adding to their uniqueness.